Francis Kurkdjian Calling – How a Perfumer Seduces the World

Francis Kurkdjian

The perfumer who reinvented the art of fragrance

He is one of the most influential and at the same time most reflective perfumers of our time: Francis Kurkdjian , born in 1969 in Paris to Armenian immigrants, has rethought the art of perfumery from the ground up. At just 24 years old, he achieved a global coup with "Le Male" for Jean Paul Gaultier – a fragrance that continues to delight millions today. But for Kurkdjian, this meteoric rise was not a destination, but the starting point of an uncompromising journey to the essence of fragrance itself.

In 2001, this visionary artist, bucking the trend toward mass-market perfumery, founded his own atelier for bespoke fragrances. At the same time, he continued to apply his masterly craftsmanship and intuitive sensitivity to the most important fashion designers, such as Rick Owens, Hedi Slimane, Riccardo Tisci, Alber Elbaz, and John Galliano, as well as to the world's most prestigious brands, such as Dior, Guerlain, and Saint Laurent.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian – a fragrance wardrobe for the soul

In 2009, he founded the fragrance house Maison Francis Kurkdjian with entrepreneur Marc Chaya. The idea: a wardrobe of fragrances that, like clothing, matches the emotions of the day. Whether the crystalline-mineral Aqua Universalis , the iconic Baccarat Rouge 540 , or the delicately leathery Amyris – each composition is a chapter of living poetry.

Since 2017, Maison Francis Kurkdjian has been part of the LVMH group , where the founder's creative signature is combined with the highest standards of craftsmanship. In 2021, Kurkdjian was also appointed Director of Fragrance Creation at Dior , where he has been responsible for all of the house's fragrance lines since then.

Fragrance as an art form – installations and crossing boundaries

As early as 2003, Kurkdjian was invited by artists such as Sophie Calle, Christian Rizzo, and Sarkis to compose his first fragrance installations. These encounters broadened his aesthetic sensibilities and helped him break down the boundaries between disciplines and sensory experiences.

His olfactory works have been shown in important institutions: the Grand Palais, the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, the Villa Médicis, the Palace of Versailles, the Cité de la Céramique, the French Embassy in New York, the Spedale degli Innocenti in Florence, the Universal Exhibition in Shanghai and the Palazzo delle Stelline in Milan.

Mentor at Takasago – Passing on knowledge and attitude

Since 2005, Francis Kurkdjian has worked for the Japanese fragrance company Takasago – one of the world's leading companies in the industry. Founded in 1920, Takasago is now present in over 24 countries and develops flavors and fragrances for perfumes, cosmetics, food, and pharmaceuticals.

Kurkdjian not only composes there, but also trains young perfumers – because for him, sound training, craftsmanship, and emotional intelligence form the foundation of every olfactory mastery.

What really makes a fragrance – Kurkdjian in conversation with VOGUE

As part of the Duftstars exhibition in Cologne, Francis Kurkdjian was interviewed by VOGUE Germany . He provided in-depth insights into his thinking:

"A good fragrance must seduce. The story counts—not the list of ingredients."

Whether rose or jasmine, it hardly matters – what remains is the feeling. And he continues:

"The quality of a perfume is not measured by the price of its ingredients. No one asks about the price of the paint in a painting."

He expressed his criticism of current trends such as scent layering:

"Would you buy two pieces of fine pastry, cut them in half, and then stack them on top of each other to eat them? Perfume is not a collage."

He also took a stand against the widespread opinion that niche fragrances are automatically better:

"I don't understand why many people automatically consider niche fragrances to be of higher quality. Just because a fragrance is less well-known doesn't mean it's worth more."

And does he wear perfume himself?

"None. Perfume means work to me. When I'm working, I wear perfume – otherwise, never."

The quotes are from an interview with VOGUE Germany, conducted as part of the Duftstars in Cologne.

Experience his works at scent amor

Even though Francis Kurkdjian is primarily associated with his own house and Dior today, his signature can also be felt in other creations. You can discover three of these masterpieces at scent amor :

Enlèvement au Sérail by Parfums MDCI is a floral oriental dream full of osmanthus, jasmine, rose and creamy amber – a seduction in fragrance form, as opulent as an opera scene.

Rose de Siwa is a tribute to the lightness of the morning – with Bulgarian rose, lychee, lily of the valley, and delicate woods. Restrained yet impressive.

Promesse de l'Aube combines mandarin, orange blossom, rose and beeswax to create a fragrance that feels like a delicate promise – clear, bright, poetic.

Scent Amor invites you to discover these rare works by one of the greatest perfumers of our time – with curiosity, calm, and a sense of the art behind the fragrance.

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