In conversation with Manos Gerakinis about slow perfumery, artistic integrity and the future of niche fragrances
Anyone who has been in the world of niche fragrances for any length of time will know the feeling: the choice is getting bigger, the names more numerous, the stories louder. But what remains is the desire for substance - for creations that not only smell good, but also tell a story. In an industry where supposedly niche brands are springing up like mushrooms, it is brands like Manos Gerakinis Parfums that remind us what it was all about in the first place. As someone who has been intensively involved with niche perfumery for years - as an enthusiast, collector, but also as a critical observer - it was a particular pleasure for me to conduct an interview with the founder of the first Greek luxury niche fragrance house Manos Gerakinis Parfums. In our conversation, Manos Gerakinis talks openly about the challenges of an industry in transition, about his vision of slow perfumery and about what makes a fragrance truly unforgettable.
Time as the greatest luxury
For Gerakinis, it all began in 2012 with a personal experiment. The well-known fragrance Sillage Royal was originally intended just for himself. A melange of floral, spicy, woody and amber notes - powerful and unforgettable. The impressive presence and admiration that the fragrance received time and again led to the realization that this creation could serve as the basis for something greater. Thus, what began as a personal olfactory expression evolved into the founding of Manos Gerakinis Parfums the first Greek niche luxury perfume house in 2014.
While a lot has happened in the market, the brand is celebrating its 10th anniversary today. Manos Gerakinis, how do you feel about current developments in niche perfumery?
Manos Gerakinis: “When I took part in Esxence in Milan for the first time in 2018, there were around 200 participating brands - many of which were still very small back then. Today, there are over 450, which shows how much the market has grown, but also how oversaturated it has become. Many brands that originally represented a niche - characterized by small production volumes and a personal relationship between manufacturers and customers - are now being repositioned as 'luxury'. This change is often accompanied by the support of large corporations and the associated restriction of creative freedom.”
I am also increasingly noticing this change at trade fairs, in boutiques and at the launch of new collections. But Gerakinis doesn't stop at criticizing this development - he has an alternative concept: Slow Perfumery. A concept that immediately appeals to me. Not out of nostalgia, but because it is radically logical. Because quality needs one thing above all: time.
Manos Gerakinis: “Especially in terms of the creative process, I personally advocate the benefits of ‘slow perfumery’, because the concept of luxury is definitely relevant. At Manos Gerakinis Parfums, we take the necessary time - for the conception of a fragrance, for the raw materials, for the composition and for the selection of the right retailers. Because time is the real luxury. And for me, that's what makes the decisive difference between niche and mass-produced goods.”
Between the own vision and trust in the skills of others
The fragrance collection from Manos Gerakinis Parfums bears the name of its founder, but not every fragrance comes from his hand alone. How can we imagine the creation of such a fragrance and how difficult is it to convey your own vision in collaboration with other perfumers?
Manos Gerakinis: “My academic career began with an undergraduate degree in political science, followed by two postgraduate degrees in economics. But my passion for fragrances, which has been with me since childhood, eventually led me to the fine art of perfumery. From the very beginning of my personal journey, I worked with perfumers whose expertise was invaluable to me. I see myself more as a kind of artistic director. In this capacity, I am responsible for the overall vision, conceptual framework and creative inspiration. The perfumers are entrusted with using their expertise to transform this vision into a tangible fragrance experience. The vision must be clear, but it is equally important to be able to communicate it clearly and respectfully to the perfumer.
The role of the artistic director is crucial in the perfumery process and should be treated with the utmost respect. Even the most accomplished perfumers often rely on outside reviewers to review their compositions and provide guidance for refinement, which further emphasizes the importance of collaborative oversight.”
What particularly impresses me: Gerakinis insists not on control, but on dialog. It is this mixture of clear ambition and openness that you notice in his compositions. A good example of this is Manos Gerakinis' collaboration with perfumer Chris Maurice for the fragrance Meθexis, which was a finalist at the prestigious Fragrance Foundation Awards in the UK.
Manos Gerakinis: “When I suggested to Chris Maurice that he create a fig-based fragrance, he was initially anything but enthusiastic - he simply didn't like the note. But a creative exchange resulted in a fragrance that not only delighted us, but also the public. The creation process of Meθexis shows once again how crucial the role of the artistic director is in the successful creation of a fragrance.”
Authenticity out of conviction
Just like scent amor in its curated selection of niche fragrances, Manos Gerakinis also relies on the power of the invisible.
We both believe that fragrances can express more than words. Can you nevertheless try to put into words what the motivation and vision behind your fragrances is?
Manos Gerakinis: “The motivation and vision for my fragrances has always been to create an emotional experience - something that goes beyond mere words. My goal is to create fragrances that evoke deep, personal connections and offer the wearer a sense of identity, a moment of introspection or a memory come to life. Each fragrance I create is an exploration of art and emotion, blending carefully selected ingredients into a narrative that speaks directly to the soul. My vision is to create perfumes that reach their wearers on a personal level, tell stories and take them on an olfactory journey. Ultimately, it's about capturing the essence of a moment, a feeling or an idea and bringing it to life through a fragrance to give each wearer a unique experience.”
We often talk about authenticity and emotional depth. In an industry where provocation often takes precedence over content: What does it mean to you to remain authentic in the context of today's niche perfumery? Is there a difference for you between distinctiveness and pure provocation?
Manos Gerakinis: “Authenticity is based on a commitment to creating fragrances that are not only high quality, but also reflect a sincere vision, a deep understanding of the craft and respect for the consumer's emotional connection to fragrance. In a world where trends often dominate, staying authentic means prioritizing creativity and meaningful expression over fleeting commercial success. The difference between distinctiveness and provocation lies in intent: distinctiveness relies on originality and emotional depth, offering a unique, lasting experience, while provocation often strives for attention without substance, focusing on shock value rather than genuine, thoughtful expression. For me, niche perfumery with true distinctiveness is about evoking emotions and memories, not evoking a reaction for its own sake.”
Where is the journey going? - A look into the crystal ball
For Manos Gerakinis, the future of niche perfumery lies in the challenge of maintaining the delicate balance between artistic integrity and evolving consumer demands. For him, those brands that maintain craftsmanship, creativity and authenticity as core values will thrive in an increasingly saturated market. The appeal of niche perfumery will remain for those seeking exclusivity and high-quality, personalized experiences. He is certain that niche perfumery will remain a prominent and evolving art form in the future thanks to its commitment to time-honored techniques and bespoke creations.
And what is the goal of the MANOS GERAKINIS fragrance collection? International growth or a focus on special fragrance creations for connoisseurs?
Manos Gerakinis: “To be honest, I don't know. We just do our best every day - and that's more than enough for me. The most important thing is to move forward with creativity and integrity, keeping our minds and hearts open and staying true to the art of fine perfumery.”
A beautiful thought - and one that I can only endorse. At a time when many things are becoming arbitrary, it is brands like Manos Gerakini's Parfums that show that the word “niche” is not a marketing term, but an attitude.
At the end of our conversation, I asked him if he could summarize his love for niche perfumery in a single sentence. His answer: “The only true luxury is time - make yours fragrantly unforgettable.”
I think, there is nothing more to add.
If you too would like to experience what it means when time, craftsmanship and emotion merge in a fragrance, it's worth taking a look at our selection of Manos Gerakini's Parfums. Each extrait tells its own story - multi-layered, full of character and far removed from the ordinary.
You can find more details about the Manos Gerakinis perfume brand here.
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