DAVID CHIEZE – Between Silence and Structure: The New Language of Fragrance

DAVID CHIEZE – Between Silence and Structure: The New Language of Fragrance

A French perfumer on the path to changing niche perfumery from within

From childhood forests to molecular poetry

When you wear a David Chieze fragrance on your skin, you sense more than a composition—you sense an inner monologue of emotion, texture, and science . Born and raised in France, Chieze was influenced early on by the contrast between the fresh, earthy clarity of his native pine forests and the complex scents of urban spaces. Even as a child, he was fascinated by the invisible: the smell of the air, the scent of rain on hot stone, the interplay between nature and the city. This early sensitivity later developed into his vocation.

Chieze consciously chose a dual path: first studying chemistry , then training as a perfumer . Because he knew that fragrance is not just art—it's also precision, a play of molecules that demands understanding and mastery. This combination of scientific depth and artistic freedom remains the foundation of his work to this day.

The first steps – learning under a master

David Chieze began his professional career at L'Artisan Parfumeur , a house that has always stood for artistic freedom and independence. There, he was discovered by Bertrand Duchaufour , one of the most influential perfumers of our time. Under his guidance, Chieze spent a formative year of intensive training, learning the intricacies of fragrance composition as well as the responsibility for his own artistic decisions.

This time with Duchaufour wasn't a classical training, but rather an artistic initiation —a transition from craft to expression. What he learned there is still palpable today: a respect for the complexity of natural materials, the importance of textural depth, and a sense of balance.

Collaborations as a catalyst – meeting with Mark Buxton

In 2013, Chieze met Mark Buxton – an encounter that would change his creative life. Buxton, known for his radical clarity and uncompromising compositions, recognized Chieze as a kindred spirit. They both shared a desire to understand perfume not as a consumer product, but as an emotional narrative .

Chieze became part of Buxton's creative team and collaborated with him to create fragrances that excelled in both simplicity and emotion—including Empa , Topia , Anti Anti , ŌN , and Geschöpf . Anti Anti , in particular, which was nominated for the prestigious Art and Olfaction Award in 2017, brought Chieze international recognition.

The philosophy: texture instead of trend, emotion instead of effect

David Chieze doesn't compose fragrances for the mainstream. His perfumes are reflections on texture, memory, and identity . He describes his creations with terms like "liquid," "sharp," "rough," and "vibrant"—because for him, fragrance is a sensory landscape where feeling and form meet.

His creative process rarely begins with a note—but rather with a sensation. An image, a sound, a taste. He collects sensory impressions, organizes them, and lets them take effect. Only then does the idea for a composition emerge. Nature is a constant source for him—in all its contradictions, tranquility, and wildness. His goal is always balance, originality, and performance —three criteria that are evident in each of his works.

He compares composing perfumes to playing a piano: thousands of ingredients , endless combinations – and yet every movement must make sense, every note must tell a story. His fragrances are not statements – they are silent conversations.

The works – a new language cast in fragrance

Chieze has worked for a variety of renowned houses—often in the shadows, but never without depth. His fragrance works speak for themselves:

• Anti Anti ( Atelier PMP , 2017) – nominated for the Art and Olfaction Award, woody-spicy, rough and conceptual, with a strong olfactory presence.

• Empa ( Atelier PMP ) – spicy-floral, with notes of cinnamon, cardamom, rosewood, cedar, and ylang-ylang. Like a warm embrace of memories.

• Topia – green, bright, dynamic. Rhubarb, mate, cedar, and herbs – urban optimism meets wild nature.

• ŌN – an olfactory meditation on being. Cannabis, patchouli, vetiver, cistus resin – deep, earthy, spiritual.

• GESCHÖPF – introspective, inward-looking, with smoky warmth.

• Delulu & Resonant ( Oddity Fragrance ) – bold, urban, multi-layered. Fragrances between digital spaces and analog depth.

• Faris ( Kajal , with Urs Castelletti) – aromatic, spicy, masculine. A fragrance with clarity and elegance.

• Ô Féminin ( M. Micallef ) – powerful orange blossom with depth. Floral sensuality meets modern presence.

• Fall In Lust ( Jillian Switzerland ), Blind For Love ( LEN Fragrances ), Soul of Bali ( Swiss Arabian ) – emotional fragrance journeys, inspired by places and memories.

• Jade Amour ( Thomas de Monaco , 2025) – one of the most promising new releases of the coming season. Details are still under wraps – but fragrance lovers are eagerly awaiting.

Its palette ranges from woody-balsamic to floral transparency to spicy-green freshness. Yet despite all its diversity, its signature remains recognizable: an emotional texture with inner balance .

Today: Research, development and creation at Luzi

David Chieze is now a perfumer at Luzi , a traditional Swiss fragrance house known for its high quality, innovation, and sustainability. Here, he combines craftsmanship with artistic freedom – and actively shapes the future of fragrance.

Conclusion: A voice of the new perfume generation

David Chieze isn't loud. He's not eccentric. But he is significant . His creations have depth, his philosophy is clear, his intuition precise. He represents a new way of perfumery—one that doesn't seek attention, but creates resonance .

Those who wear his fragrances don't just carry a scent. They carry a part of an inner world—still, clear, touching.

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